The University of Virginia Collection of Historic Dress
The University of Virginia Collection of Historic DressWelcome to The
University of Virginia Collection of Historic Dress. This collection,
housed in the Department of Drama’s Costume Department, is one of
the greatest resources we have for the education and training of costume
designers and technologists. After years of service to both the academic
and the production programs, The Collection was officially established
in March of 1999 in an attempt to preserve the collection for future generations
of costume students and historians. The collection is dedicated to Lois
Garren who, as faculty designer in the early 1970s, began selecting garments
donated to the costume department to be preserved for study rather than
being used onstage in production.
In 1990, Professor Gweneth West joined he faculty as associate professor
of costume design and curator of the collection. From this time forward
select garments have been exhibited in the theatre lobby with each production
and have become a vital component of the student’s course of study.
The Collection provides students with the unique opportunity to experience
garments from these periods firsthand and to examine the line, cut, color,
construction, ornamentation, and textiles. For this there is no substitute.
Over the years The Collection has grown to over 1000 pieces, our oldest
a man’s woolen coat and breeches dating back to 1795. Among these
are several 1830s Romantic dresses and bodices, a complete silk 1860s
Crinoline gown with cotton eyelet bishop sleeves, a slave dress (most
likely from this region), several 1880s Bustle gowns, an extensive collection
of 1900 Edwardian laces, a wool “Suffragette” suit c. 1915,
“utility” dresses from WWII, men’s wear from the late 19th
and early 20th centuries, and a number of garments from Asia, China and
Japan. Additionally, there are numerous day and evening gowns from the
1910s through the 1960s as well as designer fashions of Fortuny, Poiret,
Dior, and Bill Blass. One of our most exquisite gowns by Fortuny is on
permanent loan to The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
in New York.
The Collection’s website was conceived and developed by Professor
Kathryn Rohe. In 1993, Professor Kathryn Rohe arrived and began teaching
the undergraduate course, History of Dress. In 1996, Professor Rohe launched
the digital archive for this collection thanks to a grant from the University
of Virginia Teaching and Technology Initiative (TTI) and the support of
the Robertson Center Digital Media Lab. The purpose of the archives was
to promote better organization of the collection, document its holdings,
and communicate them to the widest audience possible.
The Collection is currently represented on this website by evening gowns
from the 1920s, 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s. Professor Rohe selected these
garments for study because of their excellent condition. Under her guidance,
students who were enrolled in her courses assisted in the preparation
of the garments for the photographer, developed the written description,
and, in some instances, a detail analysis of a particular characteristic
of the garment. Undergraduate students from the department and across
the university who were enrolled in her class 1996-1999 undertook the
majority of these projects.
Future plans include restoration to the website of advanced projects mentored
by Professor Rohe and the expansion of the website to include new projects
mentored by Professor West. These graduate and advanced undergraduate
students from History of Dress and Textiles prepare primary research into
the more fragile, delicate garments from the 19th and 20th century. Eventually,
you may well be able to view the entire catalogue of The Collection on
line. As we continue to expand our research opportunities for students
and faculty the website will continue to grow.
Students continue to be central to the mission of the website as they
have unique opportunities to conduct primary research into the history
of the garment, assist in its preparation for photographs inside and out,
and compose accompanying text. Additionally, they participate in the preservation
of the collection by sorting, organizing garments in appropriate acid
free boxes or creating padded hangers all of which extend the life of
these garments. Of these students, two in particular deserve mention—Kimberly
Morris, who as graduate student and then costume shop manager, 1996-2002,
spent countless hours building racks and organizing the collection, and
Sole Salvo, who painstakingly gave the website a much needed facelift
in 2002.
Additional credit goes to the University of Virginia faculty and staff
who made the website possible—Jude Reagan, John Alexander, John Ashenfelter,
Michael Tuite, Will Rourke, and especially Judy Thomas, who has selflessly
guided the development of the website since 1996.
Finally, The Collection owes a debt of gratitude to Professor Rohe for
her tireless dedication to its development. It was Kathryn who had the
vision to create this website and develop course projects to prepare these
garments for your study and enjoyment. In her absence we continue to support
this site and prepare to expand the wealth of garments available to you.
It is an honor to be among those charged with the preservation and study
of these exquisite examples of this fine art.
Gweneth West
Curator, The Collection of Historic Dress
Associate Professor of Costume Design
1990-Present
For further information about The Collection, the courses offered, the
MFA program, and the Department of Drama contact Gweneth West glw2r@virginia.edu